Don’t be afraid of looking pretty, Hillary

Hillary ClintonThis month’s American Vogue begins with a letter by the editor, Anna Wintour, about Hillary Clinton dropping out of a cover photoshoot.

Wintour writes that she found it “amazing” that “our only female presidential hopeful had decided to steer clear of our pages – for fear of looking too feminine. The notion that a contemporary woman must look mannish in order to be taken seriously is frankly dismaying. This is America, not Saudi Arabia.”

She goes on: “I do think Americans have moved on from the power-suit mentality, which served as a bridge for a generation of women to reach boardrooms filled with men.” Way to go, Anna! Full disclosure: I work for the same company, but she is right. (more…)

Francois Pinault’s Ultimate Luxury

Francois PinaultWith a triumphant second exhibition at his Venice Museum, Francois Pinault, the self-made french tycoon whose holdings include Gucci, Christie’s, and the Chateau Latour Vineyard, has found a new role: Champion of Contemporary Art.

On Friday, June 8, 2007, the thousands of art aficionados who had made the pilgrimage to the 52nd Venice Biennale experienced what felt like a miracle: after endless days of rain, just as the parties and art shows were coming to an end, the sun suddenly came out.

One man in particular benefited-Francois Pinault, the self-made French tycoon who owns, among other things, the Gucci Group (which includes Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, and Alexander McQueen), Christie’s auction house, and the storied vineyard Chateau Latour, in the Medoc region of France. He was throwing a dinner that night in honor of “Sequence 1,” the second exhibition at his Venetian museum, in the Palazzo Grassi, a famous 18th-century building formerly owned by the Fiat Group. For the party, 600 guests had been invited to gather on the small Grand Canal island of San Giorgio Maggiore, on which is located the Fondazione Giorgio Cini and its gleaming white 16th-century church, designed by Andrea Palladio. As guests arrived off water taxis and private boats to sip Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle, the paparazzi clicked away.

Naomi Campbell came, and so did French philosopher Bernard-Henri Levy, whose father had known Pinault. Designers Miuccia Prada, Azzedine Alaia, Stefano Pilati, and Alberta Ferretti mingled with actress Mia Maestro and Irish singer Damien Rice. Former Iranian empress Farah Pahlavi was there; so were financiers Sir Evelyn de Rothschild and Aidan Barclay. Al Gore’s daughter Karenna Gore Schiff arrived with her husband, Drew. The art world was out in full force-New York dealer Larry Gagosian brought a posse, and collector Peter Brant came with his wife, Stephanie Seymour. Pinault’s son Francois-Henri Pinault, 45, C.E.O. of PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute), his father’s conglomerate, arrived with his pregnant fiancee, actress Salma Hayek. (more…)

Holy Pop Art! Sister Corita’s Vivid Renaissance

sistercoritaThis year marks the 21st anniversary of the death of Frances Elizabeth Kent, more widely known as Sister Corita, the Andy Warhol of Hollywood. Sister Corita was a nun, a member of the West Coast’s Sisters of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, under whose progressive roof Corita developed and taught her art, a cutting-edge populist imagery in the vein of her more famous, mainstream Pop-art peers. Sister Corita used familiar 1960s artistic methods to spread the priorities of her spiritual life, namely religion and goodness, in a startling yet accessible way. She and the women she taught used silk screens, brilliant colors, contemporary slogans. She herself forsook black habits for bright, joyful clothes. The New York Times wrote that she “did for bread and wine what Andy Warhol did for tomato soup.”

Sister Corita was put on the cover of Newsweek in the 1960s; she was criticized severely by conservative Catholics but was adored by everyone else. Her champions included Henry Miller, Buckminster Fuller, Charles and Ray Eames, and John Cage. At the height of her fame, she left the convent where this revolution took place and disappeared into a more peaceful existence, with fewer deadlines and, presumably, more sleep. Commemorating her life and work is, at last, a colorful, incisive book by Julie Ault, Come Alive! The Spirited Art of Sister Corita, to be launched at the Hammer Museum this month.

Printed with Day-Glo inks to enhance the vivid hues of Sister Corita’s art and designed by the award-winning Nick Bell, the book is the handiwork of Four Corners, a high-end British art-publishing house run by Elinor Jansz, wife of the young British art collector Alexander Sainsbury. We should be most grateful to the insightful Ms. Jansz for bringing Sister Corita back to the cultural horizon. V

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In Mrs. Astor’s Shadow

Brooke AstorSince Brooke Astor’s grandson, her powerful friends, and her longtime staff alleged that the 104-year-old philanthropist’s son, Anthony Marshall, and his wife, Charlene, were taking advantage of her failing health, a New York court has removed her from the Marshalls’ care. The Embattled couple tell their side of the scandal.

On Friday, September 29, early on a dark evening, military hero, former C.I.A. officer, and former ambassador to Kenya, the Malagasy Republic, and Trinidad and Tobago Anthony Marshall, 82, sat in the Midtown Manhattan offices of his attorney Kenneth Warner. Dressed smartly in a navy blazer and red tie, Marshall was waiting for his third wife, Charlene, 61, to arrive for a meeting, so that the couple could discuss with Vanity Fair the recent lurid press stories that have accused them of abusively neglecting his 104-year-old mother, the iconic New York philanthropist Brooke Astor, and of enriching themselves with income from her assets. The allegations include forcing Mrs. Astor to sleep on a urine-soaked sofa, skimping on her medicines and clothes, and locking up her beloved dachshunds in a room away from her. Such images are especially startling considering that Mrs. Astor is famous for her wealth, her taste and elegance, her good manners, and her generosity in doling out nearly $200 million to New York charities.

The allegations were made principally by one of Anthony’s twin sons, Philip, 53, a professor of historic preservation at Roger Williams University, in Rhode Island, and they were supported by giant figures in New York society: Annette de la Renta, wife of the designer Oscar and for years the great friend and protegee of Mrs. Astor; another good friend of hers, financier David Rockefeller; and former secretary of state Henry Kissinger-all of whom in mid-July signed affidavits recommending that de la Renta be appointed Mrs. Astor’s personal guardian. De la Renta, ordinarily press-shy in the extreme, said in an affidavit that she felt that the Marshalls had deprived Mrs. Astor of things that gave her pleasure: visits from friends; getting her hair done; fresh flowers; and summer stays at her Westchester residence, Holly Hill, where, she has told people, she wants to die. (more…)

Meet the corporate wives’ club

It was a blisteringly hot afternoon in September. A friend in her 30s had hauled herself out of bed after suffering from a painful inner-ear problem to go to her husband’s annual office barbecue.

This takes place at his chief executive’s stunning house on the beach in the Hamptons, America’s summer playground for the wealthy on Long Island. Ostensibly, it’s a happy occasion – in as much as investment bankers ever experience happiness at corporate occasions. There are children running around, barefoot in the sunshine, and there is plenty of beer, wine and excellent food. It is usually an event that even the employees’ wives enjoy – and, let’s face it, that can’t be said for many office parties.

Suddenly, the husband turned to his wife and said: “Can you take off your sunglasses? ”

She was surprised. She had dressed in an enormous straw hat to fend off the sun, a pretty but simple sun-dress, flip-flops and enormous glasses to hide behind since she wasn’t feeling well.

“You look like Joan Collins, ” said the husband.

There was a pause. “I’m blonde, ” the wife replied, whispering furiously back. “How could I possibly look like Joan Collins? ”

“You look unfriendly, ” said the husband.

The wife took off her glasses, realising as she did so that she had broken one of the most important rules regulating the game of “corporate wife “. When it is your husband’s event, you don’t leave the house without first checking what he wants you to wear – something best done days in advance in case you don’t possess a pair of cargo pants, or a Ralph Lauren polo shirt or your black-tie dress is too glitzy or too revealing and you are in danger of looking too attention-grabbing.

The list of rules goes on and you have to learn them if your husband is to get where he needs to get to, allowing you to get where you need to get to.

Thus the male author of a recent controversial piece in Forbes magazine who stated that careerist men don’t want to marry careerist women was, in one sense, right.

I have got to know my way round corporate New York a little in the past few years and what I have noticed is that very successful men here – entrepreneurs, the chief executives of banks, private equity houses, hedge funds, real estate companies and so forth – have one thing in common when it comes to their spouses: they choose very smart (American word for clever) wives. (Important note: depending on the age of the man, the women I refer to may not necessarily be their first or even second wife).

The women’s common denominator is this: they long ago ceased to be interested in furthering their own careers because, they figured, what would be the point of struggling, feeling tired and looking haggard for a few extra dollars when, if you snag the right guy, you can get a private jet and five houses with staff? Not to mention designer clothes, jewels, personal decorators, islands in the Caribbean, unlimited cash for “maintenance ” or even “improvement ” of the figure and face as well as a fun-filled diary, full of engagements with interesting, powerful people.

So who are they, these women, the New York corporate wives who know how to play the game? Well, perhaps the best way to look at them is from the vantage point of the men who select them.

I do not use the word “select ” loosely.

There is a legend here about a well-known chief executive in the financial services industry, who, having tired of his first wife of 20 years, and then tired of the pretty but uninspiring models he subsequently amused himself with, sent out a list of requirements for a second spouse to his friends because he did not have time to search for the candidate himself. He was too busy flying round the world and making billions each year.

I have not seen the list but I know, generally, what he wanted.

He wanted someone who was smart enough to read him, in the same way every top-level executive needs a personal assistant smart enough to know, instinctively, when to speak, when to stay away and when to put a call through.

He needed this person to run his life seamlessly so that his time would never be wasted with menial tasks such as looking at an electricity bill, packing a suitcase or instructing the staff.

He needed someone glossy enough to reflect his glory and power but clever enough to know to not outshine him. In other words, she needed to know when to chatter away charmingly and when to shut up. She needed to be glamorous but not high-maintenance. Emotional neediness is a big no-no.

She needed, though he didn’t quite think of it like this, to make up for his defects because he had been so focused on making money that reading people socially was not one of his natural skills. She needed to know which designers, artists, decorators, authors and media people were “in “. She had to facilitate dinner parties at his various homes for such people so that he would be au courant, not to mention part of modern culture.

She must be the kind of woman who would never embarrass him by somehow denigrating him either in conversation or by dressing or behaving wrongly. She must share his interests, taking up golf if necessary (remember how Jack Welch’s second wife, Jane, became a scratch-golfer?) and chess or even cycling. (When Michael Eisner ran Disney, he used to host an annual cycling trip that guests had to train for frantically beforehand.) She must care about his children and a bit about hers if she has them – but only to a point – and certainly not more than him and the running of his houses and staff.

She needs, above all, to understand The Deal.

The Deal is that her life is about one thing only: him.

She must be there at the end of the day, looking good, drink in hand, ready to pleasure him with witty conversation or in other ways.

If not, she will be sacked. And since she will not have entered this relationship without having signed a pre-nuptial agreement, she knows exactly how she will be sacked and what assets she will be left with.

So then, who are they, these miracle-workers who pull off all of the above?

Well, as we know, they’re not Ellen Barkin, Claudia Cohen or Patricia Duff, all of whom tried out marriage with Revlon chief Ronald Perelman and were fired. Note, all of them made a crucial mistake: they worked for themselves as well as for him. Barkin acted, Cohen wrote and Duff was involved in politics.

Not Nicole Kidman. Far too A-type for Tom Cruise. Anyone notice the disparity between the amount of post-Tom Cruise movies generated by Kidman and Katie Holmes? The former won an Oscar while the latter produced a small, dark-haired baby called Suri.

And we can wonder too about journalist Suzy Wetlaufer, wife of Jack Welch. The former GE chief was quoted on Fox News saying that should he succeed in his bid to take over the Boston Globe newspaper, he would certainly not be appointing her as editor. “She needs to look after me, ” he said.

Now to the success stories. Two who spring to mind are in their 30s. They genuinely enjoy tending to their husbands. Both are effortlessly stylish and beautiful. Both are listeners rather than talkers at business dinners, yet clearly they are up to speed with current affairs and their husband’s respective businesses. Both adore their husbands, whom they talk up at all appropriate moments but in a natural, non-unctuous way. Their husbands are two of the luckiest men in the world and they are sensible enough to know it.

Another example is younger than her husband by a decade or so. She is in her 50s and had a very successful career before meeting him and, thus, has no need to prove anything to anyone – which again makes her an easy dinner companion and an asset to him. She is efficient and efficiency is what he likes. She is always “up “, never stressed and her husband has told me with some pride that he loves to hear her post-mortems of dinners because she is “so clever and a very good judge of character “. If she doesn’t like someone, or finds them a self-important bore, he will not invest with them, no matter how prominent the person. An important lesson there.

A fourth example is a sadder case. She is in her 40s and once had a glittering career but bravely, if stupidly, told people she was bent on marrying money. She fulfilled this ambition by marrying a much older man. “We go home to relax and she has to go home to work, ” is how one of my friends has described the relationship.

Now one often sees her out at dinner parties on her own, pretending to look happy but failing. Her career disappeared with the marriage because it was, so her husband once informed me, inconvenient.

Naturally, people idly and meanly speculate when the marriage will end and how much of the pre-nup she will get. The rule of thumb in the billionaire set is that you only get what they term “meaningful ” money if the union exceeds 10 years and produces children. If you do neither of the above, then you might get $5m and a small apartment. This is deemed consolation money and you will need it, since Manhattan for single women over 40 can be a brutal place.

Successful men here see females as expendable commodities. Some never bother to marry at all. Their number includes Teddy Forstmann, the corporate buyout specialist, Larry Gagosian, arguably the world’s most successful art dealer, and Jeffrey Epstein, the financier currently facing allegations of soliciting a prostitute in Palm Beach.

If all this sounds sad and cynical, well, welcome to the Big Apple. Personally I find nothing so ridiculous as the spectacle of middle-aged, single “tycoons ” escorting models 30 years or more their junior to dinner. Yet I see it with alarming regularity. Still, just when one is on the point of despair about the bleakness of the whole scenario, you see something like I saw this summer. I was in a taxi going up Park Avenue when I spotted a very famous financial services titan, now in his 60s, who was crossing the street with his wife, also middle-aged and a formidable careerist in her own right. They were talking as if there wasn’t enough time in the world to say everything they wanted to each other. When they had finished crossing, they turned to walk down the pavement. He gently put his arm around her and she returned the favour. They looked at each other and giggled like teenagers.

I don’t want to name them because it was such an intimate moment. Suffice to say, it was a sight I shall never forget.V

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The Luce Family War

luceAt 81, Leila Hadley Luce, widow of TIME Inc. heir Henry Luce III, is being sued for sexual abuse. In exclusive interviews, Luce, her daughters, and her granddaughter chart the disintergration of a family, in which money, madness, and drugs led to charges of attempted rape, incest, and betrayal.

Leila Hadley Luce enters, leaning on a walker and breathing with the assistance of oxygen from a tank. She has short white-blond hair and wears a loose-fitting dress and big jewelry. The widow of Henry Luce III (the son of Henry R. Luce, the co-founder of Time Inc.), she is giving an intimate luncheon for a few women to learn about Wings WorldQuest, a nonprofit organization that supports women explorers and science education. It is the brainchild of Mrs. Luce and her close friend, Milbry Polk, 52, a rosy-cheeked, dark-haired mother of three, who is also the niece of George Polk, the legendary CBS reporter mysteriously murdered in Greece in 1948, for whom the George Polk Awards for excellence in journalism are named. With Mrs. Polk in attendance, Mrs. Luce sits in an armchair and talks. Occasionally she has to gulp for air because of her emphysema.

Her topics include women explorers; President Bush (whom she hates); gardening; Dubai in the 1950s; and “Hank,” her late husband, who died in his sleep on September 8, 2005, at Brillig, the Luces’ summer home on Fishers Island, off the coast of Connecticut. A large portrait of him, painted by Norris Church Mailer, wife of the writer Norman, stares down at us. He is patrician-looking, with brown eyes and buckteeth. (more…)

The Getty’s Blue Period

BarryMunitzThe president of the world’s richest art institution, the $9 billion J. Paul Getty Trust, Barry Munitz is on the ropes, with the press lambasting his tenure, California’s attorney general investigating, and former Getty antiquities curator Marion True on trial. In a tearful interview, Munitz tries to set the record straight

On an unusually hot day for January in Los Angeles, with the mercury hitting 90 degrees, Barry Munitz, the president of the $9 billion J. Paul Getty Trust, the world’s richest art institution, was doing his best to strike a pose to match the sunshine.

“Hi, I’m Barry Munitz. I provided the weather,” he says, pumping my hand in the parking lot of the J. Paul Getty Museum’s magnificent Roman-style Getty Villa, in Malibu. Situated on 64 hillside acres overlooking the Pacific, it stands just in front of the ranch house that once belonged to the collection’s founder, the industrialist Jean Paul Getty. The site of the original Getty Museum, the Villa was closed for eight years for a $275 million renovation so it could house the Getty’s collection of ancient artifacts. The January 28 reopening was meant to be the jewel in the crown for Munitz, 64, who was appointed president and chief executive officer of the Getty Trust in 1997. That same year the Getty’s collection of European paintings, drawings, manuscripts, decorative arts, and photography was relocated from the Villa to the Getty Center, Richard Meier’s famous, $1 billion complex of structures, clad in white travertine marble and white metal panels, in Brentwood. (more…)

White Mischief

Sita WhiteWhen Sita White, 43-year-old daughter of the late British industrialist Lord Gordon White, dropped dead in her Santa Monica yoga class last May, her life was in complete disarray. There were the drugs she used and her questionable “nancial advisers.” There was her child with Pakistani politician Imran Khan (now divorced from heiress Jemima Goldsmith). There was the bitter struggle with her half-brother and stunning young stepmother for a larger share of her father’s fortune. VICKY WARD investigates.

On May 24, a gloriously sunny Monday afternoon in Los Angeles, a funeral service was held at the St. Monica Catholic church for Ana-Luisa (Sita) White, the 43-year-old daughter of the late Lord Gordon White, flamboyant head of the American arm of the giant industrial conglomerate Hanson P.l.c., which he co-founded. On the morning of May 13, Sita had dropped dead right before the start of a 9:15 class at the Yoga Works studio on Main Street in Santa Monica. She had been there with her stepmother, Victoria White O’Gara, a stunning, raven-haired, 41-year-old former model.

Forty or so mourners were at the church service, none of them blood relatives of the deceased; Sita’s mother was not in attendance, nor was her sister, her half-brother, or even her daughter. Nor was her stepmother. The pallbearers were led by one John Ursich, 41, a strikingly handsome Argentinean-born waiter, who had wed Sita in June 2002, but who was divorcing her at the time of her death. She claimed in legal papers that he had been abusive to her. (He denies this.)

Two nights before the service a group of Sita’s friends, including London financier Nicholas Camilleri, former British race-car driver Rupert Keegan, former model Inge Hazebroek, and real-estate investor Ali Winston, had sat sipping champagne at Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills. They were confused. “Who sent that e-mail?” asked one of Sita’s friends, referring to a missive outlining the complicated funeral arrangements. “Who’s coming?” No one could give answers. (more…)

The Beautiful and the Damned

Kate MossAfter London’s Daily Mirror ran front-page photos of Uber-model Kate Moss doing cocaine, the 31-year-old style icon lost contracts with Burberry, Chanel, and H&M reportedly totaling close to $4 million. But while the tabloids screeched about her decadent image and damaged career, the fashion elite rallied to her defense. Was she the victim of overzealous media or of her own edgy lifestyle? Talking to Moss’s friends, VICKY WARD learns about the growing stress she felt, her devotion to her young daughter, and the dangerous inuence of her hard-partying boyfriend, rocker Pete Doherty

For Kate Moss, an evening in early September spent at the side of boyfriend Pete Doherty, the front man of the rock group Babyshambles, must have felt like just any other jam session. The 31-year-old model sat in a corner of a recording studio in West London, looking impossibly glamorous in knee-high black boots and shorts, her 100-pound, five-foot-seven-inch frame as ethereal as ever, her hair wavy, with a golden tinge, falling just below her shoulders. Doherty, 26, was sitting nearby, exposing his somewhat meaty upper torso.

Quiet and friendly, cracking jokes, as she likes to, Moss, according to the Daily Mirror, cut lines of cocaine, passing them round to the people present. Holding a cigarette and drinking shots of vodka and whiskey, she snorted five lines in the 40 minutes recorded in a grainy video by a hidden camera. Those images subsequently made their way onto the front page of the British tabloid. Its sister paper, the Sunday Mirror, was successfully sued by Moss last summer after it alleged back in January that she had passed out in a cocaine-induced stupor following a charitable event in Barcelona in 2001. (Moss sought between $25,000 and $350,000 in damages.)

According to the Daily Mirror, in one scene of the video-circulated on television and on the Internet since then-Moss teasingly withholds some of the drug from Doherty, saying, “It’s just gone now. You’ve missed it.” The vignette, an acquaintance feels, sums up the dynamic of the couple’s relationship-a desperate struggle on her part to control Doherty’s open use of crack cocaine and alcohol. Until he met Moss, in January of this year, at her 31st-birthday party, it was also heroin. (more…)

Betting the Bank

John MackEager to seal their $10 billion merger, Morgan Stanley C.E.O. John Mack handed Dean Witter’s Philip Purcell the reins of the combined nancial behemoth in 1997. A few years later, or so the plan went, Purcell would hand them back. Instead, he tightened his grip, while the company hemorrhaged top talent, saw its stock plummet, and reeled from a series of high-prole lawsuits. VICKY WARD gets the bitter blow-by-blow of how a band of former Morgan Stanley executives known as “the Group of Eight”-with an unintended assist from Ronald Perelman-nally ousted Purcell in June, and returned Mack to the throne.

Though he didn’t know it, the beginning of the end for Morgan Stanley chairman and C.E.O. Philip Purcell, 61, came on January 12, 2005, at a memorial service at Riverside Church, on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. The service was held to celebrate the life of Richard “Dick” Fisher, the beloved former chairman of the investment-banking firm, who had died suddenly of prostate cancer at age 68. The church was crowded, since Fisher’s interests extended well beyond the realm of finance. Chairman of the boards of Rockefeller University, the Urban Institute, and Bard College, he was often described as a Renaissance man. Even that description, according to Robert “Scottie” Scott, 59, a former Morgan Stanley president, “does not do him justice.”

At the front of the church, a section was roped off for V.I.P.’s, who included New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg and philanthropist and former Chase president David Rockefeller. Purcell, who is six feet five, arrived early and sat in the front row. The other 10 members of the Morgan Stanley board were not present, however, something that many firm veterans found shocking. “It was completely inappropriate for the board not to come,” says Scott. (more…)